Terrain
Terrain ranges from high peaks and plateaus to low canyons. Vegetation can take the shape of forty-foot-tall saguaro cacti to vast mature conifer forests to the low scrub growth of deserts. The AZT passes through the seven life zones of North America on its journey from Utah to Mexico. The tread is mostly composed of hard-sand-and-pine-needle-based singletrack, forest roads, loose rock and sand, and bedrock.

Basically, the AZT's terrain has two distinct qualities. North of Payson (roughly the halfway point on the AZT), you'll consistently be above 5,000 feet on plateaus among ponderosa pine and aspen. The major areas of the high elevation include the Paria Plateau, the Kaibab Plateau that meanders near the 9,000-foot level and, after the Grand Canyon, the Coconino Plateau around 7,000 feet and the Mogollon Plateau and Rim, both rising to more than 7,000 feet.

South of Payson, you'll spend a lot of time in a desert environment, mostly below 4,000 feet. You will climb out of the desert when traveling on foot among the Mazatzal Mountains, which exceed 7,900 feet, the Santa Catalina Mountains, which reach upward of 9,000 feet, and the Santa Rita Mountains, which also exceed 9,000 feet. Finally, you'll hike in the Miller Peak Wilderness Area of the Huachuca Mountains, also exceeding 9,000 feet. End to end, the trail also comes within a series of one- to two-day hikes to the high points of six of Arizona's fifteen counties. The highest points in Coconino, Gila, Maricopa, Pinal, Pima, and Santa Cruz counties can be reaches as extended side trips.

Water
The AZT deserves respect when it comes to finding ample water. In the hot and dry season from May to September, water is nearly nonexistent for long stretches. All four major river systems that meet the AZT may be completely dry. Almost all of the reliable sources I found in November 2002 were reservoirs and towns; the only natural water source was stream near the Mexico border. There were sections of my trip where the next reliable water source was more than 35 miles away.

So how do people hike this trail? You have the option of caching water along remote sections of the trail, but the difficult part would be getting to your cache areas prior to your actual thru-hike. Contacting the Arizona Trail Association is a good way to meet “trail angels,” people who can cache water for you or help you with transportation to and from caches prior to your trip.

Another thing to remember is that during the winter and late fall, the water sources at many campgrounds are shut off and unavailable for use.

Wildness
For wildness in an open setting, the Arizona Trail is hard to beat. Though a legitimate long-distance trail, it is not as well known as its similar alpine neighbor in California, the John Muir Trail. Although nearly all sections of the AZT are within half a day's drive of Phoenix, Tucson, and Flagstaff—with a collective population exceeding 1.8 million people—most of those people are not going to find you on the desolate parts of the AZT.

The Arizona Trail is designed for multiple uses, allowing mountain bikes, in addition to llamas, horses, and other pack stock, for most of the route. Along the way, you'll encounter lands administered by the Bureau of Land Management, National Park Service, Arizona State Land Department, United States Forest Service, and Arizona State Park. Grand Canyon National Park requires backcountry permits for camping. Throughout the trip, resupply points for food and water, and a cool shower, will only be a few days apart, but be prepared to carry up to six days' worth of food and, of course, a lot of water (at 8.3 pounds per gallon). I found the most northern-and southernmost sections of the AZT to be the most remote. At these locations you'll walk perhaps an entire week between sources of food and water.

Wildlife
Expect to see a lot of different critters on the AZT, from little reptiles to large mammals. You might spot: California condor, coyotes, elk, mountain lions, pronghorn antelope, ringtail cats, scorpions, spotted skunks and venomous snakes.

Points of Interest

»Four Peaks Wilderness:The Four Peak Wilderness Area, located inside Tonto National Forest and near the small town of Punkin Center, is home to black bears, as well as the distinctive mountain range this area is named for.

»Dam It! In central Arizona's arid Tonto Basin sits a lake of such enormous proportions it looks like a mirage. This body of water, Roosevelt Lake, is human made and quite popular with those who love water sports. You'll cross blue-painted Roosevelt Bridge, which provides grand views of the lake and surrounding mesas. Below this bridge is the largest masonry dam in the world. In 1995, Roosevelt Bridge was voted onto the top-twelve list of most outstanding bridges in the United States.

»Towering Over Tucson: Located northeast of Tucson, the Santa Catalina Mountains are popular with local valley residents attempting to escape the desert heat. If you are thru-biking the Arizona Trail south, you'll savor the 10-mile descent on the Catalina Highway as you coast down 3,000 vertical feet into downtown Tucson. The Catalina Ridge hosts picnic areas and at least one campground, too.

» Canyon Hiking: The Grand Canyon, albeit the biggest and most grand, is just one of the many beautiful canyons and washes of the Arizona Trail. Places like Alamo Canyon, Coyote Wash, Fish Canyon, and Cottonwood Canyon give the thru-hiker all they could imagine: sand and rock walls, culturally significant historic sites, and a grand scale that may make you feel relatively insignificant. Water is sometimes available at the bottom of major canyons, and there is shade down there when the sun is not at its apex.

Excerpted from the Thru-Hiker's Guide to Americapublished by McGraw-Hill.

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