Refugio Lopez Photo by Diana Reid

The next morning, with a light dusting of snow on the ground, we set out for a hike in the park near the Arrayanes River. Having recently arrived in Argentina after spending eight months in 'always summer Central America', we weren’t as well-equipped for the winter conditions as we’d liked, so we avoided some of the higher elevation hikes and opted for a steep, but fairly mild hike to Laguna Escondida; the 'hidden lake'. After checking in with the park ranger, who updated us on snow conditions (shin-deep at the lake) for the reportedly-five hour hike, we set out on the trail only to immediately find ourselves standing face to face with a half dozen cows in a small clearing. Being from a country where cows and hiking are not a likely combination (and certainly the environmentalists would have a say) and the former are generally kept behind fences, we couldn’t get over our sudden surprise each time this happened. In Patagonia, where there is more than enough open space to go around, cows and sheep definitely have the right of way, and fences are remarkably and refreshingly rare. So, after a brief discussion with 'the girls', we clambered on.

After nearly an hour under a thick canopy of trees, we emerged onto a steep slope to arresting views of Lake Menendez, Lake Rivadivia and Río Arrayanes, and caught our breath. The trail turned slippery and jagged as we continued upwards, still dodging our agile-yet-massive cow friends at every possible turn. Around 90 minutes in, the path leveled off and we turned the corner to find the promised snow, tromping through open fields and beneath low stands of trees. All too quickly there it was; Laguna Escondida, placid and glittering almost black against the cloudy late afternoon sky. Again our five hour hike had become barely three. Hmmm. Somehow the Patagonian trails have made us the world’s fastest hikers - or perhaps the cows provide some secret incentive. We ate hot soup and drank Argentinean maté from our thermos as the mist rose lazily off the lake, and headed down.

Leaving the park, this time we drove north, following the famed Seven Lakes Route from Bariloche to San Martin de Los Andes. An oft-unpaved road leads the traveler approximately 250 miles through deep valleys, daringly close to lakeshores, and beneath the canopy of ancient trees as you wind your way lakes Nahuel Huapi, Espejo, Correntoso, Villarino, Falkner, Machónico, and Lácar; each of varying size, shade of blue, and level of civilization. As we made our way through the circuit we trekked lakeside trails near Volcán Lanin (an impressive, snow-covered peak of approximately 11,500’, which we plan to climb in the spring), hiked to thundering waterfalls near Villa Traful, and explored the tree-lined trails outside scenic San Martín.

Our final hike of the journey was out of Villa La Angostura, an upscale tourist town about fifty miles from Bariloche, and the first and last stop on the Seven Lakes drive. A heavy snowstorm in the mountains the evening before had nixed our idea of hiking to the summit of nearby Cerro Bayo, so we opted instead for the fifteen mile round-trip hike to Bosque de los Arrayanes, an almost mystical forest of cinnamon-colored, eucalyptus-like trees, situated at the end of a the Quetrihué Peninsula. Set in a national park and open to mountain bikers (another shock for us Americans), we had anticipated a flat and fast walk, and indeed fast it was, but not as flat as we’d envisioned. We ambled through shady trails, frost-covered meadows, and into brilliantly blue patches of sunshine as the wide trail jogged sharply up and down at regular intervals. One minute we’d be whispering in the majestic shade of thick forest, and the next moment the sudden appearance of fiercely white, angular mountains looming over the chilly, cerulean lakeshore would cause us to gasp and laugh; it was glorious. The miles flew by as we reveled in the tranquil surroundings, and within a few hours we found ourselves at the base of the wooden walkway that denotes the beginning of the Arrayanes forest. Constructed to minimize the impacts of erosion and prevent damage to the forest floor, the pedestrian walkway is a mere 600m in length, but offers a step into another world.

The arrayán is characterized by its flaky, paper-like bark and gnarled, almost human-looking limbs - quite befitting of a Dr. Suess tale. The trees can reach up to 45 feet and live for 300 years or more. Arrayanes exist in several other places, but this one small point on the peninsula boasts the largest single stand worldwide. Walking beneath these magical trees we reveled in the sense of being part of a secret, mystical place and imagined small children’s fears of being swept up by the corkscrew limbs that seemed to dangle dangerously close at times, as if playfully taunting you. We lunched on a small beach, admiring the mountains’ brilliant reflection in the smooth waters of Peaceful Bay, and reflecting on what an amazing journey our visit to Patagonia had been.

And quite worth getting up for each day. But maybe just not very early.

IF YOU GO:
(Note: all prices are quoted in US dollars and based on an exchange rate of approximately 3:1 Argentinean pesos to the dollar)

GENERAL INFORMATION & WEB LINKS:

www.bariloche.com
wwww.patagonia-argentina.com/i/index.htm
www.interpatagonia.com
www.patagonia-travel.com

LANGUAGE:

Spanish is Argentina’s national language; however English is widely spoken in the major tourist areas and Buenos Aires, enabling you to get around quite easily with just a few "Por favor" (Please) and "Gracias" (Thank you) utterances. Of course, the more Spanish you know, the better your chances are at really getting to know the people and the hidden secrets of this stunning region.

GETTING THERE:

Southern Winds Airlines offers flights to Bariloche from Buenos Aires for about US $200-250 round trip. www.sw.com.ar/en/home.jsp

CAR RENTAL

In Out Car Rental in Bariloche offers a 7-day rental with 1200 kilometers (745 miles) for $180. Standard rental is a VW Golf or equivalent, and four-wheel drive vehicles are available for an additional price. www.in-outrentacar.com.ar

HIKING & OUTDOOR INFORMATION:

For the best local information check with Club Andino, www.clubandino.com.ar, who can provide hiking maps, information on trail availability and/or closures, rock climbing locales, and plenty of other outdoor adventures. For mountain biking information and tours (including an awesome, five-day Andes/lakes crossing to Chile), check out Dirty Bikes at www.dirtybikes.com.ar.

GEAR PURCHASE, RENTAL OR REPAIR:

Like Starbucks in the US, there are outdoor gear shops on every corner in Bariloche and surrounding towns, so you shouldn’t have to look hard to find a well-stocked place to buy or rent gear for any possible sport, experience level or route.

HOTELS:

(Prices are based on low season and double occupancy) Bariloche:
Ruca Cheli Ski Hotel (3-star, budget lodgings with lake view rooms); $30/night, www.rucacheli.com.ar

Los Tres Reyes (4-star lakefront accommodations, excellent breakfast included), $50, www.hoteltresreyes.com

Llao Llao Resort & Spa (5-star luxury and exquisite architecture in a scenic locale), $155 www.llaollao.com

Villa La Angostura
Hostería Dos Bahias (lakefront hotel with swimming pool, tennis courts, boating, spa services, restaurant and bar), $95, www.hosteriadosbahias.com.ar.

Colina del manzano (one or two-story suites/cabins with fully-equipped kitchens, view rooms and thoughtful details), $40, www.colinadelmanzano.com.ar.

San Martin de Los Andes
Paihuen (Luxury resort features lake view one or two-story cabins with full kitchen, onsite swimming pool, fitness center, tour operator, restaurant and wine bar), $55, www.paihuen.com.ar.

Villa Traful
Cabañas Aiken (Rustic, budget cabins with bedroom loft and full kitchen. Small restaurant onsite), $20, phone (011) (54-2944) 479026.

El Bolsón
Cabañas Familia Novielo (Cozy, budget, two-story cabins with full kitchen and mountain views. Nearby brewpub makes excellent hand-crafted beer), $20, phone (011) (54-2944) 493193.

Parque Nacional de los Alerces (Lago Futalaufquen)
Cabañas Tejas Negras (lakefront, 2-story cabins with fireplaces, fully-equipped kitchen and two bedrooms), $45, email tejasnegras@ciudad.com.ar.

By Diana L. Reid