Graham Valley Photo by Damon Trenwith

Hunting maps in search of a two day spring (December) excursion consisting of a round circuit and a little sub-alpine adventure landed our fingers on a place called Gordon's Pyramid in Kahurangi National Park. The Park lies at the top of New Zealand's South Island, just west of Nelson. On the eastern perimeter of the Park stems the Arthur Range incorporating what's known as the Tablelands, and further westward the Cobb Valley. Within the Tablelands is Salisbury Open, a highland, tussock-filled plateau. Linking Salisbury Open to Mt. Arthur stands an appropriately named, sub-alpine peak - Gordon's Pyramid.

Setting off from Motueka, the 45 minute drive led us through the scenic Motueka and Graham Valleys, up a steep gravel road to the car park at the base of Flora Saddle and the shoulder of Mt. Arthur. This is just one of multiple gateways into the Kahurangi National Park, and in true DOC standards, comes equipped with an information shelter, sign in/out book and most important, restrooms.

Mt. Arthur was formed into marble beneath the sea some 450 million years ago, to be sculptured, molded and carved by the ice age, glaciers and the earth's unrelenting elements into its present form. The area is riddled with sinkholes leading into huge, intricate caving systems that is unlikely to be fully mapped or even completely explored for that matter.

"The track meanders through Salisbury Open with the snow capped peaks of Mt. Arthur standing tall behind the khaki green bush line..."

As we tramped over the Flora Saddle through red beech forest, we caught up with some conservationists trapping for rats and stoats. These predators have been diminishing the area's bird life, we were told, and all of a sudden the forest did seem a little quieter than expected. It made me realize how fragile nature's balance is and how lucky we are to have access to these places.

After just over an hour of hiking we arrived at the Gridiron shelters. This was where the area first displayed to us some of its unusual rock formations. A massive rocky outcrop overhung next to the Gridiron Creek. With accommodation for four midway up the rock and an open-plan kitchen and fireplace at the base, it hinted undertones of the Flintstones. A great spot for lunch and some cool, clear, mountain water.

This area used to be ripe with gold diggers in the early 1900s and a flurry of activity and dreams of wealth buzzed beneath the forest canopy. Their dreams were short-lived however, as there was never much gold to be found. Scattered throughout the park are derelict mines, quarrys and gold fields that can be explored on many of the tracks.

The beech forest thinned quickly and we entered the rusty coloured tussock plateau of the Tablelands. The track meanders through Salisbury Open with the snow capped peaks of Mt. Arthur standing tall behind the khaki green bush line. Four hours from the car park and after a relatively mild hike, we dropped our packs on the 24 bunk Salisbury hut steps. Gordon's Pyramid (1489m) was now in full view.

In 1875 John Salisbury introduced 100 sheep, followed by cattle and a further 400 sheep from the Graham Valley to graze the cool, harsh Tablelands. In the early 1950s all the stock was removed and the vegetation has now rejuvenated to its former state.

Cloud drifted down the mountain face to meet the fog forming on the valley floor, the sun sank beneath the tree tops and the temperature fell close to zero. A party of fifteen trampers appeared from the dense, swirling mist, with steaming backs and shoulders. Suddenly the hut was a hive of activity with wet gear being swapped for dry, and fresh alpine air for the aroma of sweaty socks and wet wool. Before nightfall the hut was full and an array of meals were being served up - from pasta delights to baked beans and soggy bread. Soon after the last candle was blown out the orchestral snoring began.

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