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One by one, rip currents surge across the shallow reef like poker players throwing down cards. Signs at Hanakapi'ai Beach warn of the strong current, dangerous shore break, high surf, sudden dropoffs and remind of the numerous drownings that occur in front of the secluded white sands. The "Healthy Camping in Hawai'i" pamphlet says, "Dehydration is a common result of unprepared hikers." We start our hike early, pack good food, a sports drink and enough water. After all, we're seasoned hikers and know about hydration, or so we thought. I jog down the narrow trail zigzagging off the luge-like edges. After 13 miles of hiking in and out of grandiose valleys, we (the seasoned hikers) have run out of food and water. A little delusional, I peer down at the beautiful beach until a rock breaks out of place and sends me crashing face first into the red dirt. I open my eyes and stare down the 400-foot dropoff into the North Pacific Ocean and realize I am inches away from becoming another statistic on one of the warning signs marking Kauai's Forbidden Coastline.
Photo: Ed LeBlanc

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